For me, some of the best times cooking have been over an open fire in the middle of nowhere. The food just seems to taste better when it comes right off the grill.

So it was with great delight that I bundled up my family and fishing gear, and headed to the City Centre Airport to board Air Mikisew’s flight to Fort Chipewyan in the nether reaches of Alberta on Lake Athabasca. It’s our province’s oldest settlement, dating back 210 years plus, and home to the Athabasca Cree and Chipewyan tribes.

I must admit that I’ve fallen in love with the place. It’s teeming with history; the fishing is superb, and the lodge quaint. But it’s the remoteness and the people that make this hidden gem a tourist destination, a must see for every Albertan. I’ve had the honour of cooking at the lodge for Air Mikisew Sport Fishing, and for some of the elders. There’s nothing like fresh walleye on the skillet. And that’s what we were after.

So we got aboard Air Mikisew Sport Fishing’s Cessna 180 on floats and headed 20 air minutes out of Fort Chip to Barrow Lake. The only way in was by plane—everything you plan to eat, drink and wear, along with all of your tackle and fishing gear has to come with you and go out at the end of the trip.

The logistics of planning such a trip can be trying, because once that plane lifts off after leaving you on the dock near your wilderness cabin, you’re on your own. No electricity, no phone, no cell service, no running water—true wilderness camping at its best. Actually, it was like the Hilton experience of the outdoors. Our cabin came with bunk beds to sleep five, and a great screened-in veranda that served as the kitchen. We had an old gas range and oven circa 1949 converted to propane. The propane fridge with a small freezer compartment kept us in ice cubes for the scotch.

After carting our supplies and gear into the cabin, and spying the outhouse, my 16-year old daughter Ashley sighed heavily, “Oh my God, Dad, what have you done to us?”

I tried in vain to explain to her that this was a great way to live just like Grandma and Grandpa did after they were married on the farm in Athabasca… what a wonderful life experience this would be… not to mention world class fishing all around us. I headed to the kitchen to get everything set up. She did bring her Harry Potter book so all was not lost.

The occasional mouse would pop out just to see what was on the menu that night, and we were warned a small black bear would frequent camp looking for handouts, so I knew we were in for an adventure. The bear never did show up, but my wife Myrna set an extra spot at the table for him just in case. Ashley did not see the humour in this at all.

However, the fishing was truly spectacular. Every second cast, we were getting fish. And much to Ashley’s delight, she caught the largest walleye each day. Myrna caught the most fish, and I was relegated to catching the smallest fish: a four inch Northern Pike. The lure it hit was bigger than the fish itself. I did manage to land a 10-pounder during the week. That made my trip.

We kept only one legal-sized walleye each day. That fed the three of us for breakfast and supper. The rest got a kiss on the snout and off they went to live another day. Air Mikisew Sport Fishing aggressively promotes catch and release. In this pristine setting, that’s the way it should be so my daughter and her children can travel to Barrow and enjoy the same thrills we had catching fish.

If fishing isn’t your thing, the scenery alone is worth the trip. Being on the Canadian Shield with eagles, beavers and moose as your companions is a wonder to behold. Granite cliffs of 100 feet or more and majestic pines, many of which were 100 years old, towered above us. We didn’t need a radio or CD player. We listened to the songs of the wind in the trees and the rhythm of the waves hitting the shore. There was the constant solo of a loon on the lake. A symphony of Mother Nature. I have never been at more peace or one with the land before. Who needs creature comforts? By the middle of the week, we had discovered an outdoor shower had been set up. Fill the tin water reservoir in the morning and by night the water was as warm as you’d find at home. I had redeemed myself in Ashley’s eyes. And thank God for Harry Potter.

If you are looking to give your family a wonderful wilderness experience, check out www.mikisewsportfishing.com. It’s a trip of a lifetime for any outdoor enthusiast.

JOHN’S COATING FOR FRESH WALLEYE

1 Cup flour

4 Tbs. Montreal Chicken Spice

1 Tbs. garlic granules

1 tsp. onion powder

1/2 tsp. crushed chili pepper

salt and pepper

Combine all ingredients in a Ziplock bag.

Shake well to mix thoroughly.

Drop one fillet in the bag at a time. Shake until coated.

Melt 1 Tbs. butter or margarine in the frying pan.

Lay fish in pan and pan fry until golden brown.

Chef’s Note: This is a very basic coating and works well even with chicken and an egg wash. If you want to experiment, try adding dill or tarragon or whatever strikes your fancy. √

Contact Chef John Berry at jberry@edmontonians.com

Contact  John at jberry@edmontonians.com

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